Complexity is overrated. Meals don't need expensive ingredients and esoteric techniques to be extraordinary. Nor do wines. There is great pleasure in simplicity, in freshness, in seasonal goodness. If you doubt it, try a chilled Rosé paired with piping hot Fritto Misto (Italian Fish Fry) just as the weather really gets warm. Not that one can't enjoy such a meal in the dead of winter, but there is something to be said for timing, and as far as Rosés go, the time is now.
Oh, but Rosé has baggage, and not because of Blush wines and White Zinfandels; if you enjoy that off-dry style, don't let the snobs take it away. But remember Bartles and James? Pink Champale?? Cold Duck??? It's no wonder Americans don't drink much rosé. On second thought, don't remember; put those beverages out your mind forever. The next time you see a rosé on a lonely shelf, don't think hangover, think glistening, tanned bodies on the French Riviera soaking up the sun and enjoying life to the fullest.
Crisp, dry and refreshing, Rosés are a red wine lover's answer to summer. Reds get their color and tannins (the astringent quality also referred to as structure) from allowing the crushed grape juice to macerate (soak) with the skins and seeds for several days or weeks before and during fermentation. White wines never macerate; their juice is removed from the skins immediately after the crush, creating a much more delicate and bright result. Rosés, however, have limited contact, anywhere from a few hours to an entire day depending on the grape variety and the winemaker's preference. Thus, they offer the best of both worlds: a wine with the rich flavor profile of reds that can be chilled because of their low tannins and bright acidity like whites.
You can taste your way around the world, starting with, of course, France. Home to the some of the best rosés in the world, France typically uses the juicy, deep grapes of its sunnier regions such as Provence and the Southern Rhone Valley.
- Chateau Routas is the quintessential Provençal Rosé. Inexpensive and light, this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault yields a wine that is packed with berry flavors and crisp acidity.
- The Domaine De Fontsainte from nearby Corbieres replaces the bold syrah with the easy carignan grape in its blend, creating a wine that is a bit softer with a hint of cherry.
- For something special, try a half bottle of Besserat De Bellfon Brut Rose Champagne. Made in a slightly different way than still rosés with a touch of red wine added to the blend, this is a dry, delicate bubbly with juicy raspberry flavors. Refined, select and just enough for two, this makes a very romantic gesture.
- Next, head to Spain for a great bargain with El Coto Rosado from the Rioja region. A blend of Tempranillo and Grenache, this wine is very light and dry, just the thing for steamy days.
- Try an Italian Conitini Nieddera Rosé made in Sardinia from the ancient nieddera grape, or the Yerling Station Pinot Noir Rose from Australia for something a little bolder. These rich and dark rosés are very flavorful, but still low enough in tannins to take a chill, and both are outstanding for barbeques.
- If you are feeling a little homesick, look no further than Le Printemps Rosé made in California's Medicino county. Made from Pinot Noir and Syrah, this wine is sophisticated yet accessible and great with a wide variety of foods. which is what Rosé is all about. So grab a bottle and get cooking.
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