October is all about Pinot Noir. Its light-bodied style allows for a smooth transition from the white wines of summer, while its earthier qualities set the stage for colder days to come. And if you're ever in doubt about which red wine to serve with a meal, you can't go wrong with a Pinot. Its relatively high acidity makes it an easy match with just about any dish, including Braised Chicken and Sweet Potatoes (see recipe section). However, Pinot Noir need not share the stage with any food; it is a star in its own right, and a downright temperamental one at that.
How temperamental? Think Marilyn Monroe. Brilliant on screen, but a nightmare on set, Marilyn Monroe was unreliable, fragile, and demanding. Yet, her screen presence was so spectacular, that venerable director Billy Wilder couldn't resist casting her in Some Like It Hot, though he vowed never to work with her after The Seven Year Itch. It took her over 80 takes to get the line "Where's that Bourbon", and over 52 to nail "It's me, Sugar." Yet, when shooting had to accommodate the Marine's flight patterns on location, she managed a three page dialogue scene in one take. Her's was an elusive magic. "I never knew what Marilyn was going to do" Wilder explained, but "As I've said before, I've got an old aunt in Vienna who would say every line perfectly, but who would see such a picture." And who would drink such a wine.
Despite its drama, Pinot Noir entices growers the world over, though its fussiness keeps product in low. Even the most seasoned growers find the grape difficult to manage. It is sensitive to heat, but needs a great deal of warmth to ripen. It prefers cooler climates, but its thin skin makes early frosts devastating. The problems don't end after harvest, either. Only the best and most experienced vintners can pull off a decent Pinot year after year. Still, like Marilyn, Pinot Noir is worth all the trouble. With its expressive fruit, silky texture, soft tannins, and bright acidity, Pinot Noir stands alone among all the noble grapes, and has for thousands of years. Certainly one of the first grapes to be domesticated, it has been in Burgundy since the 4th century A.D. The film Sideways may have increased sales, but Pinot Noir's allure, like Marilyn's, is timeless.
- For a classic Burgundy, try Nicolas Potel Volnay 2003 or Nicolas Potel Bourgone Rouge. The Volnay, in particular, expresses that unique Burgundian terroir loved the world over.
- As far as value goes, the Languedoc's Tortoise Creek Pinot Noir, with its touch of hay, is not to be missed.
- For something slightly different, but still Old World in elegance and restraint, try the German Hans Lang Spatburgunder or the Domenico Armani Pinot Nero from Italy's Alto Adige region.
- For prime examples from the New World, try New Zealand's Oyster Bay. Its cooler climate makes a clean and juicy bottle. Typically riper than Burgundies, California and Oregon Pinot Noirs offer a great deal of complexity along with their dark cherry, and strawberry fruit.
- Norton Ridge from the Edna Valley is concentrated with a hint of vanilla while entries from Oregon, The Dobbes Grand Assemblage and the Wine By Joe, bring that earthy, leather taste fans expect from the region.
Which ever you choose, make some time one chilly night to enjoy an old Hollywood classic, and a savory chicken dish. To make the night complete, open a Pinot Noir and toast one of the world's great stars.
Comments