SoGood.TV: Cooking With HJ

Fenavin 2009 - SoGood.tv to Present at Spanish Wine Festival!

Hi all, I'm getting ready to fly off to Spain to talk about wine, food and blogging.  Bringing the whole family so we can do some posts about it.  I thought I'd take this opportunity to link to some of my older posts that include Spanish wines.  The wines of Spain have both long standing tradition and modern innovation.  Interesting, accessible, established, it's all there.  Plus, TAPAS!  I'll come back with lots of great food and wine info.  In the meantime, take a peek and what I've already covered.

Sunny Spain - A primer of Spain with a link to a Spanish Tortilla Recipe.

Sparkling Wine - Includes a yummy Cava.

Macaroni and Cheese - An American classic I serve with a Rioja.

Mushroom Crostini and Red Wine - A favorite, Puerta Vieja, is included in the line up.

Mini Burgers - An easy $10 Spanish Red finishes this off quite nicely.

How To Taste Wine - I feature a lovely white from Rueda in this lesson.

Quick Video on How to Open a Wine Bottle

Merlot

Maybe it’s the falling leaves, or the pumpkins on every stoop, but suddenly I’ve got red wine on the brain.  Nothing too dark and chewy quite yet, just something easy, but satisfying enough to transition into the cold days ahead.  Something like Merlot. That’s right, I'm singing the praises of America’s most maligned grape. So, all you Sideways-watching oenophiles, grab a bottle, whip up my tasty Smothered Turkey Meatloaf with Roasted Vegetables, and remember the love.

Of course, one must be riding pretty high to have such a precipitous fall from grace, and indeed, for years, Merlot was THE red wine of choice.  Catapulted into stardom by the 1991 Sixty Minutes piece called the French Paradox, Merlot answered the prayers of America’s health-crazed hedonists, AKA Yuppies, and fast became a household name.   If a daily glass of red wine could allow the French to eat steak and cheese without heart disease, what could it do for the high-powered, baby-booming, masters of the universe?  Easy to drink and suave to pronounce, it fit the bill for marketers, trend-setters, slaves to fashion, and wine neophytes alike, making everyone look good in the process.

Not that it was an overnight success. In fact, the long-standing, fine reputation of Bordeaux’s right bank rests almost entirely on Merlot with world-class examples from St. Emilion, Pomerol and the famed Chateau Petrus. (Look for excellent values from Fronsac, Bourg and Blaye.) Still, for generations, outside that trendy bank, despite many wonderful characteristics, Merlot existed only to blend, soften, and support the premiere Bordelaise superstar, Cabernet Sauvignon.  And it does make a fine supporting player.  Not only does the grape’s plump, soft texture round out the tannic king, it ripens faster and thrives on the cooler edges of the growing regions.  When the weather is a little iffy, Merlot is the go-to grape to save the vintage. 

Even better, it shows food beautifully. When it comes to pairing, Merlot can do anything Cabernet Sauvignon does, plus a whole lot more.  More restrained styles even work well with hearty fish dishes, while pretty much any version can take on a steak. And when looking for a wine to pour with a variety of cheeses, its soft fruit, medium body and velvet tannins harmonize rather than compete. Unlike most other reds when it comes to the cheese board, Merlot is a lover not a fighter.

So why, after all this, does our fair Merlot suffer the wrath of discriminating oenophiles everywhere? Is it guilty as charged or innocent and wrongly accused? Well, maybe it should cop a plea.   On the one hand, well-crafted examples offer jammy, smooth textures with an intriguing herbaceousness. In regions such as Long Island, Bordeaux, Washington State, and Northern Italy, with low yields and well-timed harvests, Merlot’s complex tobacco notes and luscious fruit feel like a big juicy kiss after a complicated speech -- brains and beauty all in one glass. On the other hand, it did flow unchecked for an awfully long time. When transformed into a workhorse designed only to quench the thirst of an anonymous public, Merlot’s acidity becomes flabby, its fruit dull, and the tobacco notes turn weedy and off-putting. Over-production is definitely Merlot's greatest crime. Ironically, Pinot Noir's ascendance improved the quality by demanding restraint and focused attention on the part of producers.  Sideways just might be its unwitting savior.  Here’s to you, Miles.

Here are a few under $15:

Indaba Merlot, South Africa 2005, $9: Full-bodied bargain with dark fruit and touch of tobacco on the finish.

Yalumba “Y” Merlot, South Australia 2004: Very fruit forward, vibrant wine with a touch of spice.

De Loach Merlot, California 2003, $10: Soft, fruity and easy from a great producer.

Chateau La Grange de Grenet, Bordeaux, France 2005, $12: Merlot dominates this classic Bordeaux blend, rich and spicy with supple tannins.

Bedell Cellars Main Road Red, Long Island, New York NV, $12: A classic LI blend, with a juicy light touch.  Great with a wide variety of food.

For a bit more, see what Merlot can really do:

Chateausteval Fronsac, Bordeaux, France 2003, $20:  Excellent example of the beauty and complexity of Merlot.  Soft, but thoughtful.  A good value.

Blue Grove Hill, Philadelphia, South Africa 2005, $20:  A merlot dominated blend that shows youthful fruit and spice, with dense yet approachable tannins.

Brander Merlot, Santa Ynez Valley, California 2004, $20:  A big, concentrated luscious Merlot, with a subtle touch of oak.  Upscale ease.

A Quick Lesson on The Sunny Rhone Valley

The days are shorter, and school is back in session, but don't be fooled, summer is not over yet.  In fact, I think September is the perfect time enjoy a late season barbecue with the ripe wines of France's Rhone Valley. Named for the River that flows from the Swiss Alps to the Mediterranean, big, friendly Rhone wines work amazingly well the that backyard classic, the grilled hamburger.  So spark up the coals pick up a bottle for last one hurrah of summer.

France's Rhone Valley divides into two regions with far fewer similarities than a shared name might suggest.  Both produce far more red than white, and resist the more modern style of winemaking, but their climate and output couldn’t be more different.

The Northern Rhone consists of eight appellations, each more rarefied than the next.  Accounting for less than ten percent of the entire area's production, these wines, nonetheless, set the world standard for Syrah, the only red grape permitted.  Indeed, the deep, tannic reds from Cotie Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas, Crozes Hermitage and St Joseph have as much allure as any from Bordeaux or Burgundy, with price tag to match.

As far as the white grapes go, the exotic Viognier, and the rich duo of Marsanne and Rousanne are largely relegated to blending, but don't underestimate their stature. They too, are bright iconic stars in their own right. Should you find a St. Perey sparkler, or an aromatic, elegant Condrieu or an age worthy Chateau Grillet, consider yourself very lucky, unless, of course, you are paying. The output is minuscule, treasured and quite pricey.  In fact, the Chateau Grillet appellation is so exclusively small, that it consists entirely of one family owned vineyard.

As the Rhone River flows southward, the continental climate turns Mediterranean and the wine takes on a decidedly different feel.  Grenache leads the pack, but the Southern Rhone is hardly a one grape town. Mouvedre, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan, and a host of whites grapes thrive here as almost all the wines are blends, including the world renowned Chateauneuf-de-Pape which uses up to thirteen different varieties.  Other notable examples (and values), come from Gigondas, Lirac, and Vaqueras and the all-rose Tavel, but the vast majority comes from the easy and friendly Cotes du Rhone.  Earthy, lush, with a real joie de vivre, they are just the ticket for that juicy burger.

Here are a few under $15:

Parallell 45 Cote De Rhone, Southern Rhone, France 2005, $11: Lush and easy blend with bright acidity and black cherry and cocoa flavors. A great value, widely available.

Kermit Lynch Cote Du Rhone, Rhone, France 2005, $12: Bright juicy cherry with subtle earth tones and sweet wood tannins. You can taste the sun.

Colombo "Les Abelilles" Rhone Valley, France 2005, $11:  A fuller bodied white with lush peach fruit that is balanced by a hint of acidity. Slightly exotic fruit, but still approachable.

For a bit more, these are still great values:

Janasse Terre De Bussiere, Rhone Valley, France 2005, $17: Dark and deep with berry fruit, earth and toast notes. A touch of Merlot.

La Cobotte Garance, Rhone, France 2005, $16: Grenache and Mouvedre make this a rich wine with nice mineral notes.

Le Couroulu Vaqueyras, Rhone Valley, France 2003, $18: Big and spicy with robust and luscious fruit and supple tannins.

Jaboulet Vaqueyras, Rhone Valley, France 2003, $24: Grenache, Mouvedre and Syrah from a great producer. Lush, dark fruit with amazing depth and length.  A touch of cedar and spice.

Roquette Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone, France 2001, $30: Fragrant aromas of ground pepper, kirsch, and licorice. Earthy with big fruit and ripe tannins.  A classic blend with Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre. Yum.

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc is the perfect wine for August. It's bright flavors of cut grass, grapefruit and lime transform simple summer fare into memorable meals (try the Goat Cheese Salad, Warm or Not). And it's crisp acidity and medium body make it the perfect quaff on a hot afternoon. Just don't limit it to the season.  Reliable, consistent, yet never, ever boring, this grape makes a tasty impression all year round. Serve it fearlessly at any occasion.

In France, its ancestral home, Sauvignon Blanc creates two styles of dry wine: a fuller, more substantial version from Bordeaux, and a steely, lean one from the Loire Valley. Those from Bordeaux, herbacious and rich from oak ageing and the semillion grape, are best known from Graves, Entre de Mers and Pessac-Leognan. By contrast, those from the flinty Loire Valley, most famously Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, express the tight minerality of the extraordinary terroir.  Big ticket wines worthy of their stellar reputation, similar examples from Cheverny and Touraine offer terrific alternatives.

For decades, even centuries, these two French regions served as role models for growers in California, Italy, South Africa and Chile. But then, in 1973, two brothers from New Zealand planted a few vines at their fledgling vineyard and created a whole new style. In just a few short years, the cool climate and modern technology combined to create a uniquely kiwi wine that took the world by storm.  Intense, but not overpowering, New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are packed with pure fruit flavor, clean acidity and a surprisingly delicate body.  And talk about summer-ready, they almost always come with screw caps.

Here are a few under $15

• Idaba Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa, 2005 $8: A grassy and bright value inspired by NZ
• Terra Andina Sauvignon Blanc, Chile, 2005 $8: Aromatic, crisp and herbacious, with a great finish.
• Culley Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, 2006 $13: A bright, fresh and lively expression of the region.
• Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, 2006 $13: Elegant yet assertive, a touch of minerality
• Delaille Cheverny, Loire Valley, France, 2006 $13: Crisp, distinctive with lots of zest. Buy it!
• Chateau Magneau, Graves, France, 2005 $13: A great blend with semillion in the Bordeaux tradition.
• Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc, California, 2006 $13: A big, zesty treat, but not too heavy. All fruit and fun.

And for just a bit more:

• Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine France, 2006, $15: Intense, but still in the flinty Loire Valley style. Organic.
• Goisot Sauvignon Blanc, Burgundy, France, 2005 $23:  Crisp, clean grapefruit flavors with the mineral finish of the nearby Loire wines. Lovely and rare to find this from Chardonnay land.
• Jolivet Sancerre, Loire Valley, France, 2005 $24:  Elegant classic with a touch of lime.  Lean and well balance. 

   

The White Wines of Italy

Move over Chianti and step back Barbaresco, because summer is the perfect time to enjoy the white wines of Italy. They really shine with straight forward foods such as a Lemon Risotto, but are quite delicious on their own.  Long overshadowed and outnumbered by their red counterparts, Italian whites are some of the most interesting on the market today. They are also, by far, some of the most confusing. 

Divided into 20 distinct regions, with several official sub-regions or D.O.C.s, the boot grows hundreds of grape varieties in an amazing range of climates, soils and altitudes. Laws and traditions reflect the passionate and creative nature of the people, with custom trumping clarity at every turn. 

Wines may be named for the grape, for the place, or both. For example, the Prosecco grape is grown and vinified in the Venetian town of Prosecco.  However, Montepulciano D’Abruzzi, so named for the grape, has absolutely no connection to the famed Tuscan wine Vin de Nobile Montepulciano, so named for the place. With so many indigenous vines, and so many wine producing towns,  it's often hard to tell which is the grape and which is the place, but these days the high quality of the wines makes it easy to forgive the occasional mix up.

When one considers Italian whites, thoughts immediately drift to Pinot Grigio, unless, of course, one lives in Italy.  There, the northern regions of  Fruili-Venezia, Veneto, and the extraordinary Alto Adige Trentino first spring to mind.  Fruili produces the fennel-scented Tocai Fruliano, many international varieties, and the aforementioned Pinot Grigio, while Veneto boasts a much-improved Soave (Trebbiano and Garenega) and the world’s new darling, Prosecco.

Wonderful wines for sure, but Alto-Adige Trentino stands head and shoulders above them all. This once Austrian province situated near the Alps crafts beautiful examples of Pinot Bianco, Muller Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc, and the native Gewurztraminer. The wines are at once delicate, substantial and expressive; do not pass them by.

Pretty much all 20 regions produce whites, though reds dominate 2 to 1.  Still, only in Piedmont, land of the majestic Nebbiolo, could grapes as wonderful Arneis and Cortese be overlooked.  Arneis, often included on the label, makes powerful, full-bodied wines redolent with almonds, while the Cortese grape, tight, crisp and medium-bodied, is often named for the town of Gavi.

Umbria’s famous Orvietto section produces a lovely white based on the fruity, leafy Grechetto.  The Campagnia region, farther south, vinifies three distinctive and ancient grapes worth noting: the bone dry Falanghina, the peachy, bright Greco di Tufo, and the aromatic, spicy Fiano de Avellino.

Finally comes the most confusing trio of vines ever produced anywhere ever: Verdicchio, Vermentino and Vernaccia. Verdicchio, a grape best known in Marches, shows subtle flavors of lemons and nuts and pairs beautifully with food.  Vermentino, grown all over Italy, thrives in Tuscany and Sardinia, and offers rich, herbal flavors with a bold structure.  Most mystifying, however, is Vernaccia which translates to “local grape” (think vernacular) and refers to several different varieties throughout the country.  The finest come from Tuscany under the D.O.C of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. These yield a bright, crisp wine with a vivid citrus character, and a crowd-pleasing nature. It’s a lot to keep straight, but fear not, paired with the lemon risotto, you can’t miss.

Here are few under $15:

Garofoli Verdicchio, Le Marches 2005,  $12: A great producer at a value price. Light, lemony and nutty, bone dry.

Palazzone Orvietto Classico, Umbria 2005, $10. A refreshing blast of golden apple, citrus with a hint of minerality.

Borgo Maddalena Pinot Grigio, Venezie 2005, $12: Dry, light, with elegant citrus and a mineral finish.

Mormoria Vernaccia, Tuscany 2006, $14: From a top producer in San Gimignano, floral, grapefruit, and lemon zest. Elegant.

Bolzano Muller Thurgau, Alto Adige 2006, $13: This is a light, crisp, slightly fruity almost briny wine that screams for seafood.

Borgo Maddalena Fruiliano, Fruili 2005, $12: Medium-bodied, with notes of pears, wildflowers and a hint of fennel.

At a slightly higher price point, these are delicious:

Montezemolo Arneis, Langhe 2005, $21: Smooth, round, deep with a touch of candied lime zest. Glorious.

Villa Sparina Gavi, Piedmont 2005, $23: Lean, structured with light citrus fruit. A classic.

Michel St. Eppan Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige 2006, $17: An extraordinary wine, bone dry, delicate, yet very clearly Gewurtz. 

Sunny Spain

Want an affordable wine with lush, approachable fruit, regional distinction, and a delightful culinary custom to match?  Well, look no further than sunny Spain. With some olives, bread, Jamon (ham), and a classic Spanish Tortilla, you can have a tapas party right in your own backyard.

The Old World’s New World wine region, Spain is an amazing combination of ancient heritage and modern innovation. Indeed, the wine industry's pragmatic flexibility and fierce determination defied  centuries of hostile political storms. The idyllic topography and climate didn't hurt either.

It's neither the majestic Pyrennes, nor the dramatic mountain ranges known as the Cordilleras that define the geography; it’s the expansive Meseta Central. This enormous plateau stretches across 40% of the country, with Madrid, (alt 2400m) at it’s center. In fact, Spain is second only to Switzerland in terms of altitude, and 90% of it’s vineyards top France’s highest vines. With a near perfect proximity to the equator, abundant sun mitigated by the great altitude, and naturally low yields due to slight rain fall, one can see why viticulture dates back to the Phonecian occupation in 3000 B.C.

As far as red grapes go, Tempranillo is by far the most significant, followed by Grenache or Garnacha, Mazuelo (Caringnan), and Monstrell (Mouvedre). International varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah crossed the Pyrennes with French winemakers during the phylloxera epidemic of the 1800’s,  so they are a well integrated presence.

With white grapes, wine laws now allow Sauvignon Blanc and even Chardonnay in some D.O.’s (Spain’s official wine regions), but the indigenous varieties such as  Verdejo, and Xarel-lo’s are still far more significant. And speaking of regions and D.O.’s, Spain’s are quite varied so it’s worth noting a few major areas.

• On the Northwestern coast, dominated by the cooling Atlantic Ocean, is Galacia, home to  spritely whites from Rias Baixas and the distinctive and lean reds from up and coming Bierzos. 
• Eastward lies Castilla Y Leon, home to Ribero Del Duero, Rioja’s rival in terms of quality and popularity, and Toro, a reliable town for great everyday reds.
• The big rising star, however, is the nearby Rueda D.O. Revitalized  in the 1980’s by a Rioja producer searching for the next great white, it now makes delicious bright wines from the once abandoned Verdejo grape and the more traditional Viura.
• Next over is the famed Upper Ebro region, with Navarra and Rioja, the one DOCa, the law’s hightest classification, in all of Spain. Tempranillo shines here like in no other region.
• On the Mediterrenean Coast, surrounding the city of Barcelona, comes Catalonia or Catalunya with D.O.s such as Priorat, the upstart known for its licorice colored soils and intense reds and Penedes, where 90% of the world’s Cava is produced.
• To the south, toward the meseta are the regions such as Castilla - La Mancha Valencia,  and Extramedura, which grow Garnacha and Airen to varying results. Still, there are great values to be had. Andalusia, in the far southwest, is reserved for Sherry or Jerez, but that’s a whole other story.

Over the centuries, Spanish wines have veered from perfection to plonk.  Even the most dedicated vintners get distracted by inquisitions and dictators and huge industry scandal, but these days Spain is a stable, democratic member of the EU that blends modernity and tradition like no other country in the world.  And most exciting, the best is yet to come. 

Here are more than an few under fifteen:

Naia, Rueda 2004, $14: A beautiful example of what Spain does so well. An ancient white grape, Verdejo,with modern appeal. Light, citrus fruit with a touch of minerality on the finish.

Pueta Viejo Rioja Crinaza, Rioja 2004 $11: Toasty oak flavors combine with the cherry fruit to make a wine that's great alone or with food.

Penamonte Toro, 2003 $9: Talk about bargain. This Tinto de Toro (yet another name for Tempranillo) is a great value.  Abundant fruit and excellent structure.

Palacio De Monsalud, Extremadura, Spain 2001 $10: Medium bodied Tempranillo and Garnacha blend. Soft and flavorful. Excellent value.

Sexto (Sixth) Terra Alta, Spain 2004 $13:  Catalonia crafted by an American winemaker. Big lush fruit and a dry finish.

Selneval Albarino: Rias Baixas 2005 $11: A classic albarino, crisp citrus with a clean finish. Perfect with shellfish. Same grape as Portugal's Vinho Verde.

Cellars Unio Perlat Monstant, Catalunya 2003 $12: A meaty but light blend of  Carenena, Garnacha and Syrah. Ripe with a touch of herbs and spice.

Casteller Cava, Catalonia $11: Clean and refreshing with hints of citrus, mineral and a long finish.

Pironeos Masche, Somantano, 2006 $11: A wonderful blend of white grapes with crisp, citrus flavors and a touch of tropical fruit thanks to some gewurztraminer. 

Pago Del Vicario Petit Verdot Rose, Rioja 2006, $14: The juiciest rose ever. Bold enough to stand up to hearty meals, yet soft enough to take a chill.  Great for dining al fresco.

For a bit more money try their Pago Del Vicario 50-50, Rioja 2003 $17:  Fruit forward and full bodied, an equal blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yum.

Chardonnay

Legend has it that when Otis Redding first heard Aretha Franklin sing one of his favorite recordings, he smiled and said "That girl stole my song."  Well Burgundy, you may be the birthplace of Chardonnay, but with all due R-E-S-P-E-C-T, Cali stole your grape.  Without a doubt, the lean, expressive wines of the Cote d’Or, Mersault and Chablis are unparelleled in their excellence, but California put Chardonnay on the map. Indeed, after decades of great success, it is still America’s most popular white varietal and virtually synonymous for dry white wine.

Ironically, in terms of flavor, Chardonnay is pretty low key. The fruit profile, which ranges from green apples to coconut depending on climate, is rather elusive and delicate. Sometimes referred to as the blank canvas of wines, its real gifts are expression of terroir and responsiveness to vinification practices.  Indeed, no grape is more expressive than Chardonnay in Chablis. The soil's kimmerigean clay, laced with the fossils of prehistoric oysters creates a terroir that's often imitiated, but never duplicated.  Nonetheless, the vintner pretty much outranks mother nature when in comes to this grape. Makers can choose to highlight the fruit by using stainless steel fermentation, or create a fuller style with malolactic fermentation, lees stirring (batonnage), and the use of oak. 

In addition to clarifying and stabilizing wine, the tradition of fermenting and ageing in oak barrels gives lovely flavors of vanilla, caramel, figs and even an hint of tannins.  But, and this is a big but, cheap over powering oak, particularly in the form of inexpensive chips, does not a tasty wine make.  Oak abuse creates more ABC backlash than overrippening and super high yields combined.  However, high quality oak barrels, with just the right amount of toast (charred insides) create a fine complexity.  Should the producer decide to stir up the lees (or dead yeast cells at the bottom) during the process, the wood flavor becomes subtle and integrated part of the wine.

Another important technique that gets a lot of play is malolactic fermentation. During ageing,  a natural process tranforms the tart Malic acid (think apples) to a softer lactic acid (think milk).  The direct result is a creamier, softer wine and a compound called diacetyl which gives Chardonnay (not to mention movie popcorn) its buttery quality. Used wisely, this makes plump, delicious wines.  But enough technical talk, the main thing to remember is that Chardonnay is a versatile, friendly wine that pleases at any level. Call up some friends, pick up a few different styles, and throw some littleneck clams on the grill for your own backyard tasting.

Here are a few under $15.

Cool Fish Chardonnay, California, 2004 $11: Smooth, crisp and balanced. No oak, but a touch of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc give this wine a refreshing finish.

Salmon Run Chardonnay, Finger Lakes, NY, 2003 $12: Well balanced with a touch of oak and crisp acidity.

Liberty School Chardonnay, Central Coast, California $14: Full bodied, lush and tropical with a bit of oak to round out the fruit.

Los Vascos Chardonnay, Colhuguha Chile, 2006 $10: Rothschild's Chilean Winery. Big fruit and a dry finish from the Southern Hemisphere. No oak. Great value

Perrusset Macon Village, Burgundy, France 2005 $14:  That’s right a great Burgundy for under 15 bucks. Green apple with hints of mineral and stone.  Crisp and plump. Delicious.

And for drinking your way up the price point:

A to Z Chardonnay, Oregon, 2005 $17:  Yum. Clean pear and apple with notes of honey and a refreshing acidity.  Unoaked.

Oliver Laflaive Les Setilles, Burgundy France, 2005 $18:  Great producer, great wine.  Steely and medium bodied with a long finish.

Christian Moreau Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2005 $21: A lovely lean Chablis that is wonderful with a variety of food or on it’s own. Great finish.

Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay, Sonoma, California, 2005 $22: A classic balanced Chardonnay with a soft full body, a touch of oak and great fruit.

More on How to Taste Wine

Everyone knows how to drink wine, but most of us don't really know much about tasting.  Tasting, with all the rather pretentious motions, simply helps us to remember a wine so that we can categorize it, pair it, and buy it or not buy it again.  Professionals take this very seriously, and indeed, there is much to learn from every glass, however, a streamlined process will do just fine. 

1. Look for faults:  In decent light, hold a clear glass of wine up against something white, and take a good look. First, check for the color brown. Unless it is seriously aged, white or red wines that have faded to brown are oxidized or cooked, and not at all tasty.  Second, if it is a still wine, there should not be champagne-like bubbles. That indicates an unwanted secondary fermentation which is, again, not tasty. Some whites like vino verde have a slight spritz on the tongue, but they don't really sparkle.  Finally, check the clarity. If the wine is cloudy, particularly a white, it could be faulty. A little sediment is okay, but wines should, for the most part, have a translucent quality.

2. Swirl to release aromas.  Unlike coffee, wine does not give up its aromas easily.  You have to work for them. Swirling allows the wine to evaporate and release its scents.  To minimize pretentions and spills keep the glass on the table, hold it by the stem between you fingers, and make a few quick circles.  If nothing else, you'll get better service in a restaurant.    

3. Now, smell deeply for faults and flavors.  The faults will be obvious. If you get a whiff of mold, funky basement, wet dog,  it is probably corked, and not at all what the winemaker intended.  Return it without hesitation. If you don't get a pronounced bad smell, take another whiff and concentrate.  Get anything?  I know it smells like wine, but search for something else.  With a little practice and training, you will notice other aromas. The fermentation process creates compounds that mimic or replicate substances found elsewhere, so you can detect them if you pay close attention.  Then to really heighten your memory, try to connect the scent to something familiar. Often we think of natural substances like fruit, grass, butter, spices, and the like. Finally, whether or not you can name any particular scent, I guarantee you will enjoy the wine more if you take time to smell it. A great deal of what you taste actually comes from what you smell. The tongue can detect 6 elements, but the nose recognizes over 10,000.

4. Taste for sweetness, acidity, tannins, flavors and weight.
Though many rave about wine's jewel-like colors, and exquisite bouquets, you can not enjoy it with just your eyes and nose. You must bring it to your lips and take a big sip. Don't be coy; you need to get your whole mouth into the act because each part tells you something different. The tip of the tongue detects sweetness, the sides detect acidity, the back detects bitterness, and the middle detects body or weight, and flavors. The insides of your cheeks and gums, meanwhile, perceive astringency or tannins. So, swish away and ask yourself a few questions: 

• Do you detect any sweetness on the tip of your tongue?  If not, the wine is dry, most are.
• Do you notice any tingling on the sides of your tongue or salivating? That’s the acidity.  All wines need some or they will feel boring or flabby.
• If it is a red wine, do you detect a drying sensation on your gums or cheeks. Does the inside of your mouth feel soft or a bit like velvet, suede or sandpaper.  That’s from the tannins which are very lovely when combined with steak or cheese.
• How heavy does the wine feel?  Is it like skim milk (light-bodied), whole milk (medium-bodied) or heavy cream (full-bodied)?   The body corresponds to the alcohol content, and is even more important than color in pairing with food.  Heavier dishes need a nice full bodied wine, and lighter dishes do best with light wines.
• Now, what are the flavors?  Lemony, grassy, or are there hints of coffee, black plum?   Choose a few familiar ones so that you can recall them when thinking about pairing food.  For example, if you note a little herbal quality, it may be a good match for a vegetable dish.
  

5. Finally, access and judge.  After you swallow (or, sadly, spit) consider. Is the wine balanced or does it have too much of one element?  How’s the aftertaste or the finish?  Great wines always have a lasting and pleasing end. Next, check the price, is it a good value?   And last but not least, ask yourself the most important question of all: Do I like this wine? 

No need to do every step every time you drink wine, but if the glass is in front of you anyway, give it a swirl and see what you get.  So what it take a little training, the homework is so good.  Be well, hj

Video: Champagne & Sparkling Wine for the Holidays