SoGood.TV: Cooking With HJ

North Fork Wines - Preview of Summer 2012

 

I had the pleasure of visiting several North Fork vineyards this spring, so I thought I'd share my favorites. This video features a lovely selection from One Woman Wines, Castello di Borghese Vineyard and Bedell Cellars, Shout out to the very comfortable Greenporter Hotel, and the always delicious  Paumanok Vineyard.   Cheers!

Video: A Wine Discovery - One Woman Vineyard - Southold, Long Island

Rarely, if ever, do I rave about a single vineyard, especially when I visit the North Fork and there are so many I love. One Woman Wines in Southold is the exception. Their casual and relaxed vibe seems in contrast to the extreme care that goes into this production, but it all harmonizes beautifully to create spectacular wines. The only "problem" with One Woman is that, outside of Long Island Wine Country, this label is hard to come by. Not to worry, make a trip or at least visit the website and place an order!

In the video, I enthusiastically taste 3 exquisite wines, a Rose, a Gerwuztraiminer, and their Estate Reserve Chardonnay, but Claudia Purita, the profoundly dedicated owner, also makes a lovely Sauvignon Blanc, another Chardonnay, and a Merlot that might hit the shelves by Thanksgiving. (One can only hope!) 

If you make it out to the North Folk, please visit the vineyard in Southold and stop by  D'Latte - One Woman Wine and Bakery on Main Street in Greenport which is owned by Claudia's husband, Frank. They serve terrific hand-crafted gelato, a variety of fresh baked goods, and best of all, One Woman Wines by the glass. Cheers!

Video: Thanksgiving Wine Magazine Round Up

We are still editing the opus video that is the Bacon Tart, it will be up next week. In the meantime, it is never too early to start thinking about wine. My Thanksgiving picks are a Spanish Cava from Casteller, a Spanish Albarino from Castro Martin Albarino, an Italian Rose from Kreos, and last, but not at all least, a Chilean Carmenere from Terra Noble.  Yum, Yum, Yum and Yum. Have a happy and safe holiday. Cheers!

Video Recipe: Fenavin, Tapas and Wine

You don't really need a recipe to make these tapas, but I want to mention the wines, so I thought I write them up anyway. The white wine I poured is called Pazo da Boucina, a wonderful Albarino from the Rias Biaxas region, right near Portugal, it is a cousin wine to Vinho Verde. This one has a surprising lushness that was very good, but I don't think it sells outside of Spain. Another reason to return.

The two reds from Gi, however, are definitely coming stateside. They offer an affordable, crowd pleasing Tempranillo and a lush, easy Monastrell, with a white soon to follow.  And finally the Moscatel, Bodegas Porsellanes' La Sort from Valencia was sweet with a balancing acidity, delicious and organic.  I misspoke in the video when I said it would not match with any of the food. Good sweet wine makes a wonderful match with salty blue cheese. 

Endive, Watercress, Blue Cheese and Pimiento

1 large head of Endive
1 bunch of watercress
2 ounces Spanish blue cheese such as Cabrales
1 large pimiento, diced
red wine vinegar
Spanish olive oil

Separate endive carefully, and set aside the largest leaves, about 8. In a large bowl, toss watercress, large stems removed, with vinegar and oil, add crumbled blue cheese and pimiento, place in endive leaves and serve immediately.

Spanish Grilled Manchego and Jamon (Ham) Sandwich with Tomato Salad

Any kind of sliced bread works here. I used a basic Pullman loaf because it was easiest, but a nice Italian or French Boule would be yummy too. Jamon is a little like Proscuitto, but its flavor is quite distinctive.  Absolutely essential to Spanish cuisine.

2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 small onion, diced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
red wine vinegar
Spanish olive oil
salt and pepper

2 slices bread
Spanish olive oil
Manchego cheese, sliced or grated
2 slices Jamon Serrano (Jamon Iberico is more expensive and harder to find)

In a small bowl combine tomatoes, onions and parsley. Toss with olive oil and red wine vinegar, season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Meanwhile heat grill. Brush bread slices with olive oil. Place one slice on grill (oiled side down) add Manchego and Jamon, top with a second slice (oil side up) and close grill. Cook until browned, about 4-5 minutes. Slice and top with tomato salad.  This can easily be done in a regular frying pan unless you are in an exhibition hall with no access to a stove.  Enjoy with wine and friends.

"Deets" on The North Fork

Here are all the details, or "deets" as the young folks say,  for my North Fork 2008 video post.  This summer offered the best selection of local wines I've ever tasted. Only one place I visited had wine that I wouldn't buy.  Even better, many vineyards included delicious, affordable bottles.  In previous years, only the high end ones showed real promise.  In terms of wine, his region is really coming into it's own.

Agriculture, of course, is well established and excellent farm stands line the main roads of the North Fork.  Some are elaborate as grocery stores, and others simply place a basket by the bushel of tomatoes in hopes that you pay for what you take.   Sang Lee, one of the most established, was a revelation this year because of the quality and variety of their goods. They offer cheese, meat, bagged baby lettuces, and frozen goods from their own kitchen! The abundance didn't indulge, it delighted. 

New York City locavores please note they have CSA's available.  I'm already on the 2009 waiting list. CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture and basically means you can get a box of produce on a regular basis from a local farm. Click here to learn more about them or visit localharvest.org.

Paumanok - Loved their 99 Cabernet.  The Chenin Blanc is pricey but worth it.

Peconic Bay - A Terrific Rose and Unoaked Chard each for 15 bucks.

Corey Creek - Lovely room, lovely wines.

Vineyard 48 - Very hospitable, plus they had WiFi!

The Old Field - My favorite spot of 2008.  Very solid Chardonnay and Cab Franc.  Good prices.

Shinn Estates Vineyard - Good solid wine, well made. Serious reds, and a great sparkler

Pellegrini Vineyards - Accessible, open, affordable, and available in many stores.  Great Rose.

And last but definitely not least Sang Lee Farms - The best secret hidden in plain sight.

Vinography Posts The Prisoner

Alder Yarrow of Vinography, the outstanding blog out of San Francisco, recently posted an entry about the  wine I pour with my newly retitled Giant's Superbowl Chili Video. (New York, New York!) It's a big, bold, blend called "The Prisoner" by Orin Swift Cellars, click here to read the great story behind it. The recipe works for Basketball playoffs, too.

Video: Shrimp Cocktail

Thanksgiving Wine

Gobble Gobble, its November. What will be on your Thanksgiving table this year? Chances are, a bottle of wine will be right next to the turkey and mashed potatoes. So the next question is what kind of wine? When pairing one of the biggest feasts of the year, it's best to think in broad strokes and generalizations. Trying to find the right wine to pick up the sage in the stuffing and the nuts in the cranberry mold might send you over the edge. Think of the meal as a whole in terms of intensity, (heavily spiced?), style (Mediterranean or all-American?) and weight.

Wine, like food, can be categorized by weight. When tasting wine, a major consideration is how heavy is feels in your mouth. Is it light, medium, or full-bodied like skim milk, whole milk, or cream? Heavy foods pair best with full-bodied wines and lighter fare shines with a light style. Body can be determined by the grape itself, for example Pinot Noir is lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon, and by growing regions.

Generally speaking, grapes that get the most sun produce the fullest wines. Sun creates sugar, sugar turns into alcohol during fermentation, and alcohol content determines weight.  The higher the alcohol content, the heavier the wine. So, to determine a wine's weight, consider the region's proximity to the equator, and check the alcohol content on the label. Wines that are 9-11 percent are light-bodied, those between 11-13 percent are in the medium range, while full-bodied wines are over 13 percent and sometimes as high as 15.

So, if you're having cumin-rubbed roast turkey, chipotle mashed potatoes and a brined pork roast, and then perhaps all you need is a good, meaty Zinfandel, typically in the 14 percent range. On the other hand, if you're serving turkey medallions poached in a tarragon reduction with sautéed green beans, shitakes and tofu, then stick to something light. Realistically, however, most menus fall somewhere in the middle, requiring wines with a little flexibility. Here are a few wines types and examples that can stretch a bit to fit any table.

Dry Rose: Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Rosato from Northern Italy
Champagne: Pol Roger Brut NV
Finger Lake Riesling:  Salmon Run Riesling
California Sauvignon Blanc: Joel Gott
New Zealand Pinot Noir: Oyster Bay Pinot Noir
Long Island Merlot: Shinn Estates

No matter what Thanksgiving menu you chose, it is a pretty safe bet that mashed potatoes will make the cut. And well they should, a good dollop of mashed potatoes makes everything taste better. Wine included.  Check the recipe section for a fail-proof version.  Happy Holidays.

Check out my Roasted Turkey and Sides Video at: http://www.sogood.tv/heather_johnston/2007/11/turkey-its-not.html

Pinot Noir in October

October is all about Pinot Noir.  Its light-bodied style allows for a smooth transition from the white wines of summer, while its earthier qualities set the stage for colder days to come.  And if you're ever in doubt about which red wine to serve with a meal, you can't go wrong with a Pinot.  Its relatively high acidity makes it an easy match with just about any dish, including Braised Chicken and Sweet Potatoes (see recipe section).  However, Pinot Noir need not share the stage with any food; it is a star in its own right, and a downright temperamental one at that.

How temperamental?  Think Marilyn Monroe.  Brilliant on screen, but a nightmare on set, Marilyn Monroe was unreliable, fragile, and demanding.  Yet, her screen presence was so spectacular, that venerable director Billy Wilder couldn't resist casting her in Some Like It Hot, though he vowed never to work with her after The Seven Year Itch.  It took her over 80 takes to get the line "Where's that Bourbon", and over 52 to nail "It's me, Sugar."  Yet, when shooting had to accommodate the Marine's flight patterns on location, she managed a three page dialogue scene in one take.  Her's was an elusive magic. "I never knew what Marilyn was going to do" Wilder explained, but "As I've said before, I've got an old aunt in Vienna who would say every line perfectly, but who would see such a picture."  And who would drink such a wine.

Despite its drama, Pinot Noir entices growers the world over, though its fussiness keeps product in low.  Even the most seasoned growers find the grape difficult to manage. It is sensitive to heat, but needs a great deal of warmth to ripen.  It prefers cooler climates, but its thin skin makes early frosts devastating. The problems don't end after harvest, either.  Only the best and most experienced vintners can pull off a decent Pinot year after year. Still, like Marilyn, Pinot Noir is worth all the trouble.  With its expressive fruit, silky texture, soft tannins, and bright acidity, Pinot Noir stands alone among all the noble grapes, and has for thousands of years.  Certainly one of the first grapes to be domesticated, it has been in Burgundy since the 4th century A.D.  The film Sideways may have increased sales, but Pinot Noir's allure, like Marilyn's, is timeless.

• For a classic Burgundy, try Nicolas Potel Volnay 2003 or Nicolas Potel Bourgone Rouge.  The Volnay, in particular, expresses that unique Burgundian terroir loved the world over.
• As far as value goes, the Languedoc's Tortoise Creek Pinot Noir, with its touch of hay, is not to be missed.
• For something slightly different, but still Old World in elegance and restraint, try the German Hans Lang Spatburgunder or the Domenico Armani Pinot Nero from Italy's Alto Adige region.
• For prime examples from the New World, try New Zealand's Oyster Bay.  Its cooler climate makes a clean and juicy bottle. Typically riper than Burgundies, California and Oregon Pinot Noirs offer a great deal of complexity along with their dark cherry, and strawberry fruit. 
• Norton Ridge from the Edna Valley is concentrated with a hint of vanilla while entries from Oregon, The Dobbes Grand Assemblage and the Wine By Joe, bring that earthy, leather taste fans expect from the region. 

Which ever you choose, make some time one chilly night to enjoy an old Hollywood classic, and a savory chicken dish.  To make the night complete, open a Pinot Noir and toast one of the world's great stars.

Dessert Wines

Want a happy ending this summer? Finish off the season with a dessert wine paired with the classic French Clafouti. A cross between a cake and custard, this simple dish paired with the right bottle shows just how sweet a good match can be. If you want to skip the fat, go right ahead -- these wines are extraordinary all by themselves. Really, dessert wines get a bad rap, but as long as they're well made, they offer far more than just sugar on the palate. Whether Late Harvest, Fortified, Frozen or touched by the Noble Rot, these wines are satisfying and complex, with a long, lingering finish. Everything a happy ending should be.

THE NOBLE ROT

What is noble about rot? Sauternes, that's what. The fungus known as Botrytis cinerea attacks grapes when the season is particularly humid. Often, it's just a headache, but under controlled conditions, it creates astonishing wines. When touch by this rot, the grapes split open and lose moisture; the sugars, acids and flavors then become concentrated. The resulting wines are honeyed; complex with a bracing acidity that balances the sweetness. The best examples last for decades, even centuries, and are among the world's most treasured wines.

Chateau Les Tuileries is a classic Sauternes made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Suited for a variety of sweets, it also pairs beautifully with blue cheese.

LATE HARVEST

Grapes don't have to rot, they can just hang out. In order to concentrate the sugars, growers leave them on the vine to raisin. If a little fungus sets in, fine, if not, that's okay too. The only risk is the weather, and the birds. Late Harvest dessert wines have a subtle, light, dried fruit taste; think tangy apricot more than raisins.

Oremus Tokaji Furmint (so good), made in Hungary, well known for its dessert wines, is an outstanding Late Harvest Wine. If you're looking for value, Argentina's Santa Julia Tardio, based on the Torrontes grape, and is not to be missed.

ICE WINE

The most dramatic method of making a dessert wine originated in, of all places, Germany. Instead of relying on the sun or botrytis to dry out the grapes, they let Old Man Winter do the work. At great risk, growers leave the grapes on the vine well into the November or December. As the sugar content increases, the temperature drops and the moisture freezes. When the perfect combination of brix (sugar level) and frost finally occurs, the grapes must be picked and pressed immediately, under the cold dark of night. That way, only the sweetest of juice, with its colder freezing point, will be used. Like Botryized wines, Icewine or Eiswein has a bracing acidity to balance out the almost syrupy richness, and it lasts for decades. Konzelmann Ice Wine from Canada is worth every penny.

Bonny Doon Muscat Vin Glaciere and Pellegrini's "Finale" use the same idea in making their ice wine, but in typical New World style, they rely on technology to drop the temperatures, and stick their grapes in the freezer.

FORTIFIED

Rather than wait for the grapes to ripen to high sugar levels, some wine makers decide to stop fermentation before the yeast eats up all the sugar. This is done by fortifying or adding a neutral spirit to kill off those magical organisms. The wine is then filtered and bottled. Not as long lived as the others, these wines are typically made with the Muscat or Moscato. Happily, the method preserves the fresh fruity style particular to that grape. Examples include the lovely Domaine De Durban Muscat from the Beaumes-de-Venise region of France, and the Yalumba Museum Muscat from Down Under.

Australians refer to their dessert wines as stickies, and wouldn't consider ending a meal with out one. They're on to something. Capture the last few days of summer with a Late Summer dessert and a sticky. Don't let the Aussies have all the fun.